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    Tree Stand Buddy Overview – The Safer Easier Way to Put up a Tree Stand

    Tree Stand Buddy Tree stand Bracket System
    Tree Stand Buddy is a very unique and useful tree stand bracket system that has been designed to work with your tree stands to provide an easier safer way to move, put up, take down and manage your treestand.  The Tree Stand Buddy comes with a bracket which fits onto your single or double post tree stand and a receiver which you can fasten to the tree with regular ratchet straps.
    The TBS receiver comes with a metal loop that you can use to hoist your stand up into the tree or lower it down from the tree.  This of course saves you from the dangers and time it takes to carry your stand up or down with you. Once in the tree you simply slide the bracket located on the back of your stand into the receiver piece that has been fastened to the tree and it provides a noise free tight fit that keeps your stand from moving and making noise.
    A few of the benefits of using the Tree Stand Buddy include:
    - Easier, faster and safer mounting or unmounting of your tree stand
    - Easy take down of your tree stand to prevent theft.
    - Allows your stand to be set up the same time every time.
    - Buy separate receivers for easy relocation of your stand to your different hunting spots
    - Strong sturdy and tight fit to keep your stand in place and quiet.
    Tree Stand Buddy Commercial
    You can find more information about this treestand bracket system that will save you time and effort here: Tree Stand Buddy Information
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    10 Bow Hunting Tips for a Successful Hunt Part2

    7. Keep your Shot Distance Reasonable
    I see this time and time again and I can’t re-iterate it enough.  It does not matter one bit whether you are shooting a compound bow or a crossbow, they are not guns you cannot shoot animals at 100 yds and expect it to go well.  I would strongly recommend not shooting anything over 60 yds as this is getting just too far and by that time the kinetic energy needed to kill the animal starts dropping considerably.  The key to being a good bowhunter is to make clean kills to ensure a quick painless death as well as the maximum chances of recovering the animal.

    8.Know the Vitals of your Intended Target
    Knowing where the vitals are on the animal that you are hunting is crucial to ensure that you make a quick, clean kill.  It is strongly suggested that you do a search online or gather the location of the vitals before you go hunting for that specific animal.  This information can be found online, or in books.

    9.Check Bow and Equipment for Damage
    Imagine this, you’re sitting in your stand waiting for your trophy animal and all of a sudden you hear something, you slowly get up and turn to see a HUGE Buck walking your way.  You slowly turn and draw your bow waiting for that buck to cross your shot path.  The Buck comes into the prime position you aim and all of a sudden your sight slides off, or your string snaps or your release lets loose before you’re ready.  Sure enough the Buck gets spooked and off it goes.

    Nothing sucks more than getting all the way out to your hunting spot, setting up all your gear getting ready for your shot and then realizing you have broken, loose or damaged equipment.  Make sure you inspect all of your equipment to make sure it is in perfect working order before heading out.  This will save you a ton of embarrassment and kicking yourself in butt.

    10. Know the Local Laws and Regulations of the Hunting Area
    Aside from missing your trophy because of faulty equipment or a mistake, one of the biggest things that suck is being ignorant to the local hunting laws and having an officer come by and take all of your equipment, animal and fine you out the ying yang for breaking the said laws.  Trust me save yourself a lot of money and trouble familiarize yourself with the local laws and regulations before going out.

    Bowhunting is almost always an enjoyable time and can be very rewarding if you are able to get your hands on that beautiful trophy animal.  If you’re tired of watching and hearing about all these other bownunters snag their animals while you’re left year after year with nothing, follow these tips and you’ll greatly increase your chances of having a successful hunt.

    10 Bow Hunting Tips for a Successful Hunt Part1 

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    10 Bow Hunting Tips for a Successful Hunt Part1

    Every year as fall nears bowhunters anxiously get ready for the hunting season whether it be for big or small game. and without fail there are always those bowhunters who bag their limit year after year and those who don’t get anything at all.  Here are 10 bow hunting tips that will help you to increase your chances of bagging your trophy animal year after year.

    1. Practice
    Simply put you need to regularly practice shooting your bow if you want any chance of being able to bag your trophy animal. The more you practice the more accurate and confident you become in your ability to shoot consistently well.  Shooting a few shots to see if  “you still have it” right before you go out does not work and will definitely come back to bite you when you’ve got your eye and sights on that beautiful animal.

    2.Research your Hunting Area
    Researching the area where you will be hunting is one of the major keys to a successful hunt.  Research can include mapping, scouting, baiting and other techniques that allow you to become familiar with animal travel and feeding patterns for that specific area.  Once you are able to figure out where the animals are and how they travel you will be able to find yourself a great place to set up your tree stand or blind.

    3. Set Yardage Markers
    Once you have that perfect hunting spot you should choose some land marks and measure their distance as marker so that you can more easily tell roughly how far the animal is when you take your shot.  You can choose landmarks or place  markers ( rock, branch, corn cob etc) for 10, 20, 30,40 and 50 yds. This will greatly help when your adrenaline starts pumping and you have to quickly figure out how far to shoot for.

    4. Pack Appropriate Gear
    Bowhunting requires specific gear which includes knife,flashlight, tools, clothing, arrows, safety items and more.  Forgetting some of your gear can really put a damper on your  hunting session or entire hunt.  Make sure that you pack everything you will need in a backpack in the event that you do bag an animal.

    5. Be Sure of your Shot and Target Before Firing
    These are 2 important points that should be exercised by every bowhunter.  Some bowhunters will shoot at anything that resembles a deer in hopes of bagging their trophy animal.  This is very dangerous and can land you in serious trouble if you shoot the wrong type of animal or worse a fellow bowhunter.

    It is also necessary to be aware of your shot before you take it.  Shooting an animal in the spine or anywhere else but the lungs/heart can leave the animal wounded and could mean a lost animal or ruined meat.  Always be aware and sure of your target and where you’re shooting or don’t make the shot at all.

    6. Stay Put after Shooting your Trophy
    This is an absolute *Must* for all bowhunters out there no matter what kind of game you’re hunting.  When you shoot an animal it will undoubtedly start running away with adrenaline kicking in full throttle.  In a sudden surge of excitement and exhilaration, bowhunters will often jump out of the tree stand and quickly start following the animal.

    This of course is never a good idea as you greatly increase your chances of spooking the animal again and having them continue running until you lose them.  After shooting an animal watch carefully the direction the animal runs off to and then wait for about 30 -45 min.  This should allow enough time for the animal to feel less spooked, bleed out and drop to the ground usually only a short distance away from where it was shot.

    10 Bow Hunting Tips for a Successful Hunt Part 2

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    Arrow Kinetic Energy Calculator

    Kinetic energy is the energy produced by a certain object in motion. Kinetic energy is an expression of the fact that a moving object can do work on anything it hits or comes into contact with.  In archery kinetic energy of an arrow is measured in foot pounds (ft lbs)and describes the force or energy that the arrow creates when it comes into contact with the target or animal.

    When bow hunting  it is essential that your arrow is generating enough kinetic energy in order to efficiently kill and in most cases get a pass-through on the animal. If your arrow does not generate the kinetic energy needed for the animal the arrow will not properly penetrate and kill it and will more than likely end up injuring it and causing the animal to get away from you.

    Below the calculator table portion, is a general rule of thumb when it comes to animals you’re hunting and the amount of kinetic energy that is needed. *It is important to note that these values are just generalized and differ between different states/provinces.

    Arrow Weight(gr)
    Bow Speed(fps)
    Kinetic Energy(ft lbs)

    Small game- 20 to 30 ft-lbs is sufficient. Some states may have a minimum requirement.

    Medium Game
    – For whitetail, mule deer, black tail and the like it is recommended to have at least 40 ft-lbs. Certainly a well placed arrow with slightly less than that may do the job.

    Big Game
    - 50 ft-lbs or more would be recommended for this type of game. Mostly because the shots may be at further distances.

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    How to Quickly Field Dress a Deer

    If you are looking at trying you hand at bowhunting deer one of the most important things you will need to know is how to field dress a deer should you get the opportunity to shoot and kill one.  Properly field dressing a deer is very important as it helps to:

    - Cool off the body temperature of the meat to slow the spoil rate
    - Prevents surface bacteria from forming on the deer
    - Maintains the overall quality of deer meat.

    It is also important that you have everything you will need on your person, or close by so that you can ensure  your ability to field dress a deer as quickly after the kill as possible.  The following is a list if items you will need:

    Deer Tag
    Camera (take a picture of your trophy)
    Sharp / Clean hunting knife
    Small rag or towel to wipe the blood off your hands (can also use surgical gloves)
    Rope to tie legs and/or drag the deer
    Axe or Saw for quartering deer
    Several small pieces of string or twine
    Large zip-lock or self-sealing bag for the heart and liver.
    Tarp – Optional if you want a clean surface to field dress your deer on

    Below is a few videos on how to field dress a deer quickly and cleanly.  These videos offer great information and will help teach you how to properly field dress a deer. *Note – Graphic Content

    How to CLEANLY Field Dress a Deer in under 7 Minutes

    How to Hunt Deer : How to Field Dress a Deer: Part 1

    How to Hunt Deer : How to Field Dress a Deer: Part 2

    How to Hunt Deer : How to Field Dress a Deer: Part 3

    It’s important to note that field dressing a deer takes time and practice in order to master.  You may need to watch these videos a few times in order to remember all of the steps of field dressing a deer but once you have to knowledge and skill to properly field dress a deer you will be able to greatly minimize the chances of spoil.

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    Broadheads Mechanical vs Fixed Blade – Which are Better?

    When it comes to broadheads for bowhunting, there are basically 2 types you’ll have to choose from – Mechanical or Fixed blade.  When asked most archers are unable to agree upon or answer the question “Which is better?”.  In this article I am going to explain the difference between the two and discuss the pros and cons to both the fixed and mechanical blade broadheads.

    Fixed Blade:
    A broadhead with blades that are constantly exposed.  These broadheads usually come with 2,3 or 4 blades and are the simplest form of broadhead that has been around since the beginning of archery.

    Mechanical Blade:
    A broadhead with blades that are hidden (folded into the broadhead housing) either held in with elastics, o-rings or pressure fittings.  These broadhead blades have tips that cause the blades to expand upon impact pushing the blades into a fully exposed cutting position.

    Now that we have an understanding about the differences between mechanical and fixed blade broadheads, I would like to take the time  to go over some of the main pros and cons of each to give you a better idea of what each is capable of and to help you in deciding which to chose.

    Fixed Blade:
    - More effective for steep angled shots.
    - Less chance of mechanical failure (blades not opening/parts breaking).
    - Increase in penetration at lower poundage.
    - Efficient cutting ability(begins to cut on contact).

    - Decreased accuracy under certain conditions (windy.thick brush)
    - Greater risk of personal injury.
    - Flies differently than field points which means increased setup and tuning time.

    Mechanical Blade:
    - Flies similar to field points which means less tuning.
    - Less chance of accidental injury.
    - Increase in accuracy as there are no blades to deflect off things or get grabbed by the wind.
    - Better in thick bush(less chance of blades hitting brush while in flight).

    - Greater risk of deflection at steeper angled shots.
    - Risk of mechanical failure to expand blades.
    - Less efficient cutting ability(starts cutting only after blades have opened, this is getting better with newer mechanicals ie. Grim Reaper broadheads).

    As you can see there are pros and cons to each and that is why most hunters are often unable to agree as to which broadheads are better. If you are hunting in thick bush or its a windy day you may want more slender, less obtrusive mechanical broadhead, whereas if you’re going to be making steep shots or shooting less weight you may want to go with a fixed blade.

    When it comes down to the final decision its all about personal preference.  Personally I shoot a fixed blade because I like the increased penetration at any angle and the simplicity of the broadhead design that I feel cuts down on potential mechanical failures that can result in a lost and injured animal.  As long as your bow has been paper tuned and sighted in for broadheads the accuracy is very often not affected.

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    Grim Reaper Broadheads Overview

    Grim Reaper broadheads have gathered a lot of attention since the release of their first mechanical broadhead in 2000. The reason for the positive attention is due to the fact that their broadheads feature their self invented “RazorTip” Technology which means that not only do Grim Reaper broadheads contain 3 normal blades, they also contain small blades within the tip of the broadhead. These small blades are meant to give these broadheads more penetration, bigger entrance wounds, and bigger blood trails.

    On top of the small razor blades within the tip of the Grim Reaper broadheads, these mechanical broadheads also contain no o-rings, or elastics to hold the blades shut.  Each of the blades is independent of each other and have a locking system once open to make sure that the blades do not move once expanded.

    Grim Reaper mechanical broadhead features:

    - No rubber bands or o-rings.
    - Small razor blades in tip.
    - Blades rest on shock absorbing spring.
    - Quick change blades.
    - Blades open with 1 pound of pressure.
    - Come in 75, 85, 100, and 125gr weights.
    - 440 stainless steel blades.

    Grim Reaper mechanical broadheads through this technology has given them the ability to:

    - Make angled shots without deflection.
    - Expand or Open Blades without kick on the arrow
    - Create bigger more devastating entrance wounds
    - Create bigger blood trails
    - Drop your trophy animal quicker

    Grim Reaper has re-written the design and functionality of mechanical broadheads to enhance penetration, blood trails, durability, and accuracy.   If you are a mechanical broadhead user, and would like a broadhead that has been designed for performance, give Grim Reaper broadheads a try.

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    What is let-off and why is it Important?

    First off I just want to take a bit of time to define what let-off is when it comes to the world of archery.  Basically put let-off is a number that is expressed as a percentage that measures the total amount of draw weight that is reduced from the original draw weight when the bow is at full draw.

    I know that may sound a bit confusing so let me just explain this with a simple example. Let’s say you have a bow that has a 70lb draw weight with a 75% let-off. This means that at full draw the bow’s draw weight will be reduced by 75% .  So with simple math we can determine that it would take 70lbs of force to pull the bow back however once fully drawn the weight to continue holding at full draw would drop to roughly 17.5lbs.

    So why is this important?

    Let-off can be extremely useful especially if you are using the bow for hunting purposes.  Think about how much easier it would be to sit there in the cold and hold back 17.5lbs as compared to 70lbs while waiting for the perfect shot on that trophy animal.

    Let-off can also help to increase concentration and accuracy during both shot placement and the release of the string because your body doesn’t have to divert extra energy to holding back strenuous amounts of weight.  This will allow you to tire less quickly and will allow you more time to focus and make that money shot whether it be on a target or an animal.

    Which bows commonly have let-off?

    The only bows that have let-off are compound style bows.  Over the years bows have come to offer adjustable let-off so you can choose how much let-off the bow has by adjusting a piece on the cam.

    Let-off is an important part of archery whether you are a bowhunter or a competitive archer and should be one of the many key points looked at when buying a bow.

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    How to sight in a bow – Complete Guide

    Whether you’re new to the sport of archery or you’re buy a new bow you will need to know how to sight in a bow properly and effectively in order to ensure you’re bow will hit where you’re aiming when you release the arrow.

    *Note that before you start sighting in you should paper tune  your bow in order to make sure the arrow is shooting straight from the bow. Click here to see our “How to Paper Tune your Bow” article

    In this article I will guide you through how to properly sight a bow.  In order to get started we will need the following tools/items:

    -Allen wrenches
    -Field point Target
    -Measuring Tape
    -3 arrows with field points
    -Stake/Wooden Marker

    We’re going to start by taking our tape measure and measuring out 4 distances of 10 yds from the target and placing a marker in the ground at each 10 yd increment.

    Next take your gear and tools and set up so that you are about 5 yds. This will allow you to safely see where your initial arrow flies without missing the target and losing or breaking an arrow.

    We are going to begin by taking care of the left to right changes first and then adjusting the sight for height later on.

    When adjusting your sights keep 3 things in mind.

    1. Adjust your sight in the same direction that your arrow is hitting.  So for example if your arrow hits too much to the right you will adjust your sight to the right a bit.

    2. Adjust the whole sight first for 30 yds and then adjust your pins for the other yardages.

    3. Keep your adjustments small, a slight adjustment to the sight can mean a huge change in where the arrow hits the target.

    Using your 30 yard pin aim at the center of the target and take note of where your arrow goes.  If it is too far left move the sight left and shoot again until the arrow is hitting right on or within a half inch of where you are aiming it.

    Once finished move back to 10 yds and repeat, fine tune the left to right based on where the arrow hits the target. At this point your left to right should be taken care of and we can begin dealing with the high and low of the arrow.

    When shooting at the target from 10 yrds with your 30yd pin you should expect the arrow to hit about 3 – 4 inches higher than where you aim. If this is the case then move back to 20 yds, if not then adjust the sight so the arrow hits higher and then move back to 20yds.

    Repeat this process again at the 20yd pin and then move back to 30 yards.

    At this point you will be able to fine tune your sight for up and down, left and right using your 30 yd pin.  At 30 yards your arrows should be nearly dead on or very close to it.

    Once you have your 30 yrd pin shooting the way you want it to, you will be focusing on fine tuning your other yardages by making adjustments to the actual pins (10,20,40,50 etc) instead of the entire sight.

    After completing these steps your bow should be properly and successfully sighted in and you will only need to further fine tuned if need be.

    Below I have included a great video to give a visual representation of what I am explaining in this article

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    New Vertical Force Technology Reduces Bow Jump and Hand Shock

    Compound bows have taken a turn to new technology that greatly reduces the amount of jump and hand shock the bow has when shot. This new technology is called vertical limb technology.

    In previous versions of the compound bow the limbs where set so that when the bow was fired the limbs would shoot forward, this worked well except for the jump of the bow, as well as the hand shock within the riser of the bow. In order to correct for this a lot of different equipment was made in order to try and dampen the shock.

    Bowtech was the first to come up with this new vertical force technology, in 2003 they released 3 compound bows featuring this new technology. The VFT Extreme, Patriot VFT, Patriot Dually VFT. This new technology was a huge hit, bow hunters and archers all over were amazed and fascinated at how much this new technology reduced bow jump and hand shock after the bow had been fired.

    This new technology was such a hit that all of the other bow company’s started following suit, and started implementing the “Vertical Force Technology”. This new technology was implemented by angling the riser limb pockets at more of a horizontal plane, this allowed the limbs to sit at more of a horizontal plane. VFT works on the basis that when the bow is drawn the limbs are compressed in a downward motion instead of the old backwards motion.

    When the bow is released instead of the limbs shooting forward, the upper limbs goes up and the lower limb goes down. Because these limbs are the same they both store the same energy, which makes them equal opposing forces which in terms of physics means that these two forces would cancel each other out. Because the forces are equal and cancel each other out your bow does not pull up or down, and no longer jumps forward. This is science is what keeps your bow still and reduces the amount of jump and hand shock you feel.

    If you are still shooting the old style of compound bow, and you have not at least tried the difference that this VFT technology brings to the table I would encourage you to go and give one a try, I can assure you that you will not believe the difference that it makes. This is definitely something to keep in mind when purchasing a new or used bow.

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