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    Why 3D Archery Will Make You a Better Bow Hunter

    A 3D archery course is basically a course in which a bunch of 3D animal targets are set up in bush, in real hunting scenario positions. Each target has a heart, lung and body section. In most cases a heart shot is 10pts, a lung shot is 8 pts and a body shot is 5pts. The goal is to stand at the specific marker that has been set for that animal, and guess the distance at which the animal is standing as well as where the vitals would be on the animal.

    3D archery shooting is a really fun time and is even better when a group of people go and you make it a competition. In order to find a place near your area that offers 3D shooting events, you can go onto the internet and do a search of 3D shoots, when those results come up you will need to narrow it down to your state and city. Another good way to find out is to simply ask other archers, and bowhunters in your area.

    Usually before entering onto the course there are target bags set up for practice shots. This is a great time to take a few shots just to make sure your bow equipment is working properly and to warm up your muscles. Make sure that if you have any questions at all make sure to ask around, other archers and the owners of the course are always more than happy to help out a fellow archer, especially if you’re new to archery or 3D shooting.

    There are many different types of 3D animals you will be shooting at, the courses that I have seen I have shot at moose, bear, deer, alligators, beavers, raccoons, goats, and many others. Some of these animals are placed out to about 70 yards and can get pretty tricky to know where to shoot at but it is a whole lot of fun.

    The best thing about 3D archery shoots however; is that fact that it’s almost like you’re hunting. There is no better way in my mind to practice for bow hunting than to shoot animal replicas set up in hunting like scenarios, with accurate vitals. 3D archery will teach you to judge distances quickly without the help of a range finder, it will help to teach you where the vitals are on the different animals you will be hunting, it will also teach you the kind of tricks the trees and shrubs can play on your eyes ex, the tunneling effect., and it will train you to be an overall better archer.

    Let me just say that nothing will make you happier than when that 10 point buck comes out into that clearing in front of you and you will have seen that dozens of times before when shooting the 3D course, and you will know exactly how far he is and where to shoot.

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    The Dangers of Dry Firing a Bow


    Dry firing a bow is the act of shooting a bow without an arrow. While this may seem harmless to some of us who are just starting out I assure you that this can be one costly mistake. The fact of the matter is that it can happen to anyone beginner or expert for many different reasons. Whether it be from ignorance, distractions, or accidental misfire of a release it happens all the time. So the question is what do you do if you accidentally dry-fire your bow.

    There are a few outcomes that could happen when a bow is dry-fired, the first is that your bowstring, and cables could snap resulting in your limbs breaking and potential debris flying all over the place. This is basically the worst case scenario. The second scenario is that your string breaks however everything else stays intact, and the third possibility is that it will appear that nothing has happened to the bow.

    No matter what scenario your bow falls into after being dry-fired, the first thing you will need to do is to get a magnifying glass and a bright light and look over the limbs especially near the cams for any cracking, or splintering. If you find that one of both limbs have cracks or splinters in them then you will have to replace the limbs before you are able to shoot again.

    After checking for cracks and splinters in the limbs, take a look at the cams/wheels to make sure that they have not been bent or cracked, again if they are you will need to replace them as soon as possible before you are able to shoot. Next if you were lucky enough to have your string still intact, you will need to check the whole thing for badly frayed portions, cut strands, and badly damaged areas, especially near the axles.

    If everything checks out and you were unable to find anything wrong with your bow then you are lucky, and you have 2 options, your first option is to draw the bow(with an arrow) and shoot it. Make note of any weird noises, or vibrations. If you aren’t the risky type then you can bring it into a bow repair shop and they will have the tools and resources to be able to better inspect it for damages.

    In any of the other cases where the string breaks and/or the bow limbs shatter, you will first go get medical attention if you need it and then you will need to bring your bow in to a bow repair shop and you will have to replace the limbs,string, and any other broken parts(axles,cams,wheels etc.).

    Dry-firing your bow is something you will want to avoid at all costs. To help minimize your chances of dry-firing a bow you should always draw a bow with an arrow in it, and aim it at a target. This way if you do accidentally release the string there is an arrow in it and you have a target to stop the arrow. Also if you are just trying out a bow be sure to draw with a anti-dry-fire release. When in a group of people it is very easy to become side tracked and forget to load your bow with an arrow. Its always good to double check before you draw your bow.

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    Bow Safety – Things You Should Avoid at All Costs

    Archery is a fun and addictive sport, that is enjoyed by countless people. What some people tend to forget however is that while archery is fun it can be deadly as well if you’re not careful and keep safety in mind.

    Every year there are people injured from being careless or just not knowing about the “do not’s” of shooting a bow. This article will provide you with the knowledge you need in order to keep yourself from getting injured or injuring somebody else.

    -A lot of people when they draw their bows back aim it way up in the air in order to make it easier for them to draw it. You tend to see this with a lot of beginners or especially individuals trying to pull too much weight. The problem with drawing the bow in this way is that the release that you use is mechanical and they have been known to let go randomly.

    This means that if you’re in the middle of drawing your bow and your release misfires, your arrow is going to be launched off into the sky where there is no telling what and where it is going to hit when it comes down.

    -This next point happens all the time and is one of the biggest causes of bow damage. It is very important that you NEVER NEVER dry fire (shoot a bow without an arrow loaded in it) a bow. When a bow is shot without the arrow, the limbs and axles/cams are thrown back much more violently and with a lot more force often causing damage such as cracked limbs, bent cams/axles, broken strings and cables, and more seriously potential broken parts that could come back and hit you.

    -As I have stated before bows are not toys, they can cause serious injury and even death. That being re-stated, you should always be sure of your target as well as its ability to stop your arrow, before you fire your bow. This is especially true for hunters when in the early morning or late evening. If you are even a little uncertain as to your target DO NOT shoot, you can end up creating more problems for yourself than is necessary.

    -When drawing back your bow, it is good to remember that releases are mechanical devices that could fail at anytime and without warning. It is because of this that you do not want to draw your bow back at face level as well as have your finger in front of the trigger.

    The reason being that if you’re pulling 50-60lbs and your release lets go, your hand and release are going to sky rocket back into your face. This is not a very pleasant experience at all, and has been known to even knock people out cold. Keeping your hand behind and pressed up against the back of the trigger can help reduce the chances of mis-firing.

    -Although arrows are expensive,it is never a good idea to shoot an arrow that is damaged, no matter how insignificant the damage may look. When an arrow is shot out of a bow it has a huge amount of stress on it, and it bends back and forth.

    If there are stress cracks, or splinters, or any other kind of structural damage to the arrow shaft, upon firing the arrow shaft could shatter and send hundreds of pieces of carbon fiber sailing into your arms and hands.

    It is important to keep these warnings in mind each and every time you shoot your bow. Keeping these warnings in mind will help to ensure the safety of not only yourself but of the others around you as well.

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    An Introduction to The Sport of Archery

    Bows come in all shapes, sizes and colors but they all work on the same principle of potential and kinetic energy. When the bow is drawn the limbs are pulled inward creating energy that is stored in the limbs of the bow as potential energy. When the string is released the stored energy from the limbs are transferred to the arrow in the form of kinetic energy.

    The compound bow is one of the most popular bows that archers use this is because it offers more accuracy, speed and distance than other bows. The compound bow also offers something called let off. This is where at full draw the weight that is needed to draw the bow is dropped by 60%-80% so the archer can hold the string back without having to fight a great amount of weight

    The crossbow comes in as a close second to the compound bow for popularity. The crossbow is actually very close to a gun without the fire power. A crossbow takes the least amount of skill to operate as the string can be pulled back and locked into position and then fired using a trigger when the time arises. Crossbows because they have smaller limbs usually have a draw weight of 150+ pounds. This is a perfect transition bow for the avid gun hunter.

    In today’s archery world speed is a huge marketing topic for a bow, the speed of any given bow is called the IBO speed. This is calculated by using a 350grain arrow at 60lb draw weight and a 30inch draw length. The speed of a bow is greatly affected by these three issues (draw weight, draw length, weight of the arrow).

    Two common ways to shoot a bow are with what is called a release and fingers. Shooting with a release makes drawing a bow fairly simple because it puts less stress on your finger joints as well as providing a smooth release that will undoubtedly increasing the accuracy of the arrow.

    Shooting fingers is tougher in that your fingers are holding the weight of the drawn string and when the string is released from your fingers it tends to rotate the string around causing a loss of accuracy.

    When it comes to shooting a bow there are a couple of things you have to watch for so as to avoid serious injury.

    1. Before shooting an arrow you must make sure to look it over for any potential cracks or splinters that may be in the shaft. Shooting an arrow with a crack or splintered area could end up shattering into a million pieces and more often than not end up embedding themselves into your arm.

    2. Never under ANY circumstances shoot a bow which does not have an arrow loaded into it. Doing this will most definitely crack the limbs causing the bow to potentially shoot pieces of bow back in your face. Even if in the event that you’re lucky enough not to get injured your bow will be rendered useless.

    3. When shooting in wooded areas make sure that branches and twigs don’t get under the string. If this happens when the string is released and wraps back around the cam if there is a branch under the string it could get caught and cause the string to fall off the cam track.

    4. Not all arrows are compatible with your bow, if you shoot an arrow that is not stiff enough then when the arrow is shot it will bend too much and the arrow could shatter causing bodily harm.

    5. Never under any circumstance shoot straight into the air. You never know where the wind will take it or will it will land and you could seriously injure somebody.

    Today there are two main types of shooting in the sport of archery and those are competitive shooting and hunting.

    With competitive shooting the archers goal is to shoot arrows at a given target aiming at the bull’s-eye of the target or as close as possible so as to beat the other competitors. In competitions accuracy is everything, even being off on your shot by a quarter inch could be disastrous, due to this the equipment needed for this type of shooting has to be very precise and accurate and therefore the price of competition shooting equipment is a little more than hunting.

    Hunting has been around since the dawn of time and simply involves the archer shooting at animals for the purpose of food This type of archery needs less accurate equipment than target shooting as the as you are not trying to shoot for quarter sized bullseys.

    Aside from the accuracy difference of the equipment hunting also requires the use of broadheads which are razor sharp blades the screw on to the front of the arrow. The reason for this is because the biggest goal when hunting is taking the animal down as quickly and painlessly as possible.

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    5 Mistakes Every Bowhunter Should Avoid

    Every bowhunter at one time or another has made a mistake that has cost them an animal or has cost them a good clean shot leading to hours of trailing. Those of us who have been bow hunting for a number of years have discovered most of these mistakes and have worked hard to learn from and correct them.

    In this article I’m going to take you through some of the biggest mistakes that archers make so that you can catch them before they ruin your hunt.

    Missing the Kill-zone

    In order to bring down an animal as fast and as painless as possible you need to shoot the animal in the kill-zone. The kill-zone is right where the lungs and heart are housed together. This kill-zone placement varies a little on different animals and also depending on the animals’ position (standing, laying down).

    Poor placement of an arrow on an animal will turn your hunt into a nightlong event as the animal will take longer to die. Before you venture out hunting it is a good Idea to familiarize yourself with the vitals, of the animal you will be hunting. This will help you to better judge where you should be shooting. Practice is also a huge importance. You can do this by going online and looking for pictures or what I would recommend is getting a 3D target, the best out there in my opinion are the Rinehart targets: Rinehart Targets Broadhead Buck 3-D Archery Target
    Rinehart Targets Bowhunter Buck 3-D Archery Target

    Misjudging Distance

    This is by far one of the most commonly made mistakes that causes hunters to wound or lose their animals. This is mostly due to 2 reasons. The first reason is that the archer has not had enough if any practice judging yardages and therefore is very inaccurate when it comes to guessing the range of the animal.

    The second reason is that some of the hunting scenarios in the bush make it hard to judge distance because of the tunnel effect or hills or some other obstacles you may run into. The good thing is that this problem can be fixed by placing markers around your tree stand or hunting spots so that you can more easily identify the different yardages.

    Another great option is to get a hold of a rangefinder( Ranger Eye 800 – Laser Range Finder) these will definitely help to make sure you don’t misjudge your distances again.

    Equipment in Poor Condition

    In my opinion nothing is as frustrating as going hunting getting all setup to shoot at an animal and then having something break on your bow because you have neglected to ensure that all of the components of your bow were in good condition. This is a very common mistake as well.

    People often forget that a bow is a piece of equipment that needs to be taken care of and serviced just like a vehicle or a machine. Your bow should be tuned, sighted in, and checked for anything that could be worn out or broken on a regular basis, especially before going on a hunt or to a competition shoot.

    If you practice with your broadheads at all they will become dull so before you begin your hunt take your broadhead sharpener and touch up the blades a bit. I would personally recommend the one I use it is a bit expensive but it works great G5 Montec Diamond Stone Broadhead Sharpener

    Arrows have to be spined correctly to the poundage of the bow. If the spine is too stiff or too loose the arrow will never fly accurately.

    Following Up Too Soon

    I have definitely made this mistake myself, and it is very easy to do. There’s nothing like finally getting that shot on a beautiful animal, and seeing the arrow hit the sweet spot and the animal run a short distance and then lay down. Adrenaline and excitement overwhelm you and automatically your climbing out of your trees tand and rushing towards your trophy.

    As you near the animal you see it twitch and then you see it spring to its feet and start off again, and all you can do is stare in disbelief. This is the problem with following up too soon. Although animals that have been shot in the kill-zone die fairly quickly remember that the animal is running on adrenaline which causes them to be able to keep going if they feel threatened again.

    The general rule that I follow is to wait about 20 min if the animal was hit in the kill-zone, and about 35-40 minutes if you feel that shot was good but not the greatest. Following this rule you will increase you chances of recovering your trophy animal and not have to chase it for hours.

    Drawing Too Much Weight

    Way too many bowhunters are obsessed with speed and therefore crank down their bows to the max draw weight possible so that they’re shooting the max speeds possible. Now don’t get me wrong, speed and kinetic energy is important but its not the only important thing to worry about. Accuracy is just as critical as speed and energy. By having your draw weight set beyond your ability to comfortably draw your bow, you will just handicap yourself and inhibit our ability to correctly and effectively shoot your bow.

    Believe me when I say, the few feet per second you stand to gain is not worth the probability of missing your trophy animal. Remember too, that drawing your bow is relatively easy when not in hunting gear and standing on the ground. It becomes more difficult from a tree stand not too mention that the degree of difficulty is compounded with cold temperatures and layers of clothing making it all of a sudden nearly impossible to draw your bow.

    Too often I’ve seen archers at a archery range that can barely draw their bow. I sometimes can’t help but wonder what happens when they are out hunting.

    Mistakes will be made and there is no use in stressing out about them. The key is to figure out what you did wrong and try to learn from your mistakes each time you make one. By understanding and learning from your past mistakes you greatly increase your chances of becoming a better bowhunter.

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    How to Grip your Bow so that You don’t get Stung

    Whether you are an avid archer or shoot occasionally, almost everyone of us has had the unpleasant experience of being hit with the bowstring. Being “zinged” is probably one of the most painful experiences of shooting a bow and once you do it, you really start trying to figure out how to avoid having it happen again. There is really only one main reason why you get zinged and that is improper grip on the bow.

    Most archers grip the bow with the middle of their palm running down the center of the bow handle. On top of this poor form we also tend to squeeze really tightly which inevitably brings the string closer to our wrist. Not to worry though after being zinged myself I was taught this new way of holding the bow that would pretty much completely eliminate any chances of being hit with the string again.

    The easiest way to explain this grip is to have you look at the front of your hand. Notice the meaty portion of your hand just below your thumb. This portion of your hand is going to be what sits on the middle of the bow handle instead of the middle of your palm.

    Next your going to put your four remaining fingers together and place the tips of these fingers on the front portion of the handle/riser and your going to curl your thumb over to the right of the handle(if right handed).

    *note the space between the arm and the string.

    This grip is guaranteed not only to help keep your arm from getting hit but because this grip really inhibits squeezing really hard, it also helps to reduce bow torque. Just remember that you should only have your hand tight enough around the handle in order to keep it in your hand after the shot. Holding your bow too tightly will really hurt your accuracy and consistency, if you are afraid of your bow dropping you can pick up a very cheap solution. Its called a bow-sling and it attaches to the handle and you put you’re hand inside the sling to prevent your bow from coming out of your hand. Braided Bow Sling

    When hunting or shooting in the winter your clothes tend to be a lot thicker and this can cause the string to start hitting your jacket. The solution to this is to get a hold of an arm guard this will help to keep you’re coat sleeve out of the way of your bowstring. Vista Tuff-Lite Armguard

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    How to paper tune your bow

    Paper tuning your bow is not a necessity in order to shoot your bow, however it does ensure that your bow is shooting straight and as accurate as possible. In most cases it even helps to reduce the amount of difference between field points and broadheads.

    Paper tuning is really nothing more than putting a piece of paper between two posts and then shooting your arrow through the paper into a target located just behind the paper. In doing this you are able to see if the arrow is kicking left,right,up or down.

    1. Lets get started what you need to do is to get 2 posts of some type and secure them so that they cannot move. Your going to want the posts to be about the width of the paper your using minus an inch on both sides because your going to need to fasten the paper to the posts.

    *NOTE make sure that the paper is not creased or wrinkled as this will affect the outcome results.* Also make sure the paper is at the height of the arrow being shot because you do not want to be shooting downwards or upwards into the paper as the results will be inaccurate as well..

    2. Alright so now with the posts firmly in place in front of your target and the paper fastened to the posts you are now ready to start shooting. So what we are going to do is go back about 3-5 yards from the posts. Now what your going to do is shoot an arrow into the sheet of paper making sure that your form good so as not to torque the bow.

    3. After the arrow has passed through the page there may or may not be significant tearing. What your going to do next is to go to the paper take on of your hands and put it behind the paper and put the tears back together so that you can see how its tearing. Once you see how it is tearing then you can make the adjustments to your arrow rest. *NOTE the best way that I have found is to work on one problem at a time so work on either horizontal tears or vertical tears*.

    4. Alright so now what we have to do is read the tear and fix the problem. Now the most important part to remember is that you must move your rest in the direction of the tear, so for example if after getting the paper back together you notice that the tear is going to the left then you need to move the rest to the left, if the tear is going in an upward direction then you need to move the rest up etc.

    Now this could take some time as once you move the rest you must continue shooting into the paper until you shoot the arrow through with no tearing and the end result looks as though your looking at the back of an arrow. You need to do this for both for horizontal and vertical tears.

    5. Once you have the arrows going through properly with the flecthings on we need to get a bare arrow(one without fletchings)and go through the same steps. In doing this we can eliminate even the smallest of tears that may have been covered up by the minor tearing from the fletchings on the previous arrow we used.

    The goal of this new arrow is to get it making what looks like bullet holes, the holes should be round with no tearing at all. If this is done than you have successfully paper tuned your bow, this will ensure maximum accuracy and penetration of the arrow.

     

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    How to Sight In your Bow


    Sighting in your bow is a very simple but but can be time consuming process. Simply put sighting in your bow is basically setting up the pins on your sight so that when you aim and release the arrow; it hits where you were aiming. In order to sight in your bow you will need a set of allen wrenches, for the sight/rest/pin screws.

    STEP ONE

    First of all you need to set up a target and some markers, that will mark off distances of 10, 20,30,40 yds etc As for a target I use and would recommend Field Logic’s ” The Block Elite 4×4 Field Tip/Broadhead Target ” for 3 reasons
    *These targets can take a beating and last a long time
    * You can shoot both field point and broadheads at it
    * It is one of the only targets I have tried that you don’t have to fight with to get your arrows out of it.

    . Set yourself up so that your body is perpendicular to the target about 5-10 yds away. Load an arrow into your bow and aim at the target with the top most pin on your sight; where you want the arrow to go. Do this a few times just to make sure that you didn’t flinch or the wind didn’t grab the arrow.

    Walk up to the target and make note of where your arrows are in relation to where you were aiming. If the arrows are off from your aimed spot then go back and move the sight just a little in the direction that the arrow was off. For example if your arrow was right, then you will move the sight to the right. *Note – We are just concentrating on left to right at this point.* Continue this process until your arrow hits where you are aiming(in relation to left and right).

    STEP TWO

    At this point your arrow should pretty much be dead on when it comes to left and right alignment. With the left to right complete we can now work on your up and down alignment. Basically to start out with, this process is going to be pretty much the same as the first steps. Make sure that you are standing perpendicular to the target about 10 yds away. Instead of using your top most pin however; you will now use your pin that you are going to be using for 30yds(usually your 2nd pin from the top).

    Aim at the center of the target and then release the arrow. The expected results should be that the arrow has hit 3-4 inches higher from where you aimed, this is normal. If you are off left to right repeat the previous steps. If the arrow is lower than where you were aiming simply loosen the sight and bring the sight down just a little bit. Continue shooting until the arrow is about 3-4 inches higher than where you were aiming.

    When you have reached the desired results move back to the 20yrd marker. Again using your 30yrd pin aim at the center of the target, again you should be hitting just above where you were aiming. the difference now should be only about 1-2 inches higher. If the arrow hits dead on or is a little low then make the adjustment downwards to your sight, and try again until the results are reached.

    Move back to the 30 yrd marker, and aim again at the center of the target. Your arrow should be hitting pretty much right where you aimed it. You may have to make small adjustments to fine tune your sight, however you probably won’t need to do very much.

    STEP THREE

    In the previous steps we were concentrating on moving the entire sight in order to sight in your 30yd pin, now with your 30 yd pin set and all ready to go we can now focus on your individual pins. This process will take a bit of time but basically you are just going to move forward or back depending on the pin that you are working with and moving the pin up or down to get the desire shot placement for that yardage.

    Do this for the rest of your distances leaving your 30yd pin alone. In doing it this way you avoid setting up the 10, 20 yd pins and then realizing that the entire sight has to go up or down and then once doing so having to re sight in the 10, 20 yrd pins. This saves a lot of time and frustration. Once all your pins are set you are now sighted in and ready to go.

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    How to Make a Simple Archery Target

    Archery targets come in all shapes and sizes as well as different materials. These however can become pretty costly. The good thing is, is that you can build a target out of inexpensive materials and it takes hardly anytime at all.

    1. What you need to do is get a hold of a burlap sack(coffee bean sacks work very well), it should be about 2.5 ft in width and 3.5 ft in height.

    2. Next you’re going to need about 15-20lbs of rags/old clothing. If your wondering where to get these you can go to a thrift store, 2nd hand store, salvation army store etc and if they receive clothing that is in too rough of shape to sell then they throw it out.

    3.Take the rags and stuff that bag until it is just below the top of the bag, making sure that you get as many rags as possible in there.

    4. Take the top of the bag and seal it. You can do this by threading small rope through the holes of the bag. And there you have it your very own target.

    It’s important to note that this target is only good for field points and will not be able to handle any kind of broadheads, including expandable.

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    Archery Tips – Improving your Shot Accuracy


    Accuracy is a major part of archery, whether you’re a beginner or an advanced shooter. Archers are always trying to improve their accuracy in order to get better penetration, and of course to get bragging rights.

    You see it with company ads all the time. They come out with these sights and rests that have been “designed with the archer in mind”; Guaranteed to make you more accurate.

    Well that’s great that the equipment is good and promotes accuracy but what good is accurate equipment, if your inaccuracy is due to your inconsistent form. In this article I am going to give you 3 pointers that will help you to improve your form and therefore improve your overall shot accuracy.

    The first pointer and probably the most important is that you need an Anchor point, I cannot stress this enough. If you take anything from this article take this pointer. It alone will improve your accuracy a great deal. When you draw your bow and are at full draw you have to find at least two points; one where you can anchor the string and two where you can anchor your hand EVERY time you draw your bow.

    When I’m shooting my first anchor point is putting my index knuckle behind my ear lobe, and my second anchor point is putting the string on the tip of my nose. In doing this I am guaranteeing that every time I shoot my bow I am going to be consistent therefore improving my shooting consistency and accuracy.

    The second pointer is your stance, yes your stance does play a major role in your shot accuracy. When shooting at a target you want to be standing so that your side is pointing at the target.

    Your feet should be pointing perpendicular to the target and should be a little less than shoulder width apart. The reason you want to stand this way is because it allows for the greatest stretch, so you can reach the full draw potential, and helps you to avoid letting the string creep forward on you before you let go, giving you the maximum speed from your bow.

    The third pointer is your grip. The way you grip the bow has a big effect on where the arrow will end up. Grip can be broken down into 2 factors; the strength of the grip and the way the hand is wrapped around the bow handle.

    When shooting your bow the best way to hold your bow is to put the center of the handle running down the muscle right under your thumb. You then want to place your 4 finger tips on the front of the handle (see Avoid Getting Stung by your Bow for pictures).

    When you grip the bow you want to grip it just hard enough to keep it in your hand. The most common problem with gripping it tightly is that you tend to torque(twist) your bow either left or right and that causes the arrows flight pattern to be erratic, ending in missing the mark you aimed for.

    Following these pointers will no doubt have you shooting more accurately and consistently than ever before. Now it does take a little while to get used to these pointers as most of us have to break our old habits and it also takes lot of practice to master true proper form but when you do finally get it you’ll be shooting like a pro.

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