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    How to Quickly Field Dress a Deer

    If you are looking at trying you hand at bowhunting deer one of the most important things you will need to know is how to field dress a deer should you get the opportunity to shoot and kill one.  Properly field dressing a deer is very important as it helps to:

    - Cool off the body temperature of the meat to slow the spoil rate
    - Prevents surface bacteria from forming on the deer
    - Maintains the overall quality of deer meat.

    It is also important that you have everything you will need on your person, or close by so that you can ensure  your ability to field dress a deer as quickly after the kill as possible.  The following is a list if items you will need:

    Deer Tag
    Camera (take a picture of your trophy)
    Sharp / Clean hunting knife
    Small rag or towel to wipe the blood off your hands (can also use surgical gloves)
    Rope to tie legs and/or drag the deer
    Axe or Saw for quartering deer
    Several small pieces of string or twine
    Large zip-lock or self-sealing bag for the heart and liver.
    Tarp – Optional if you want a clean surface to field dress your deer on

    Below is a few videos on how to field dress a deer quickly and cleanly.  These videos offer great information and will help teach you how to properly field dress a deer. *Note – Graphic Content

    How to CLEANLY Field Dress a Deer in under 7 Minutes

    How to Hunt Deer : How to Field Dress a Deer: Part 1

    How to Hunt Deer : How to Field Dress a Deer: Part 2

    How to Hunt Deer : How to Field Dress a Deer: Part 3

    It’s important to note that field dressing a deer takes time and practice in order to master.  You may need to watch these videos a few times in order to remember all of the steps of field dressing a deer but once you have to knowledge and skill to properly field dress a deer you will be able to greatly minimize the chances of spoil.

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    Broadheads Mechanical vs Fixed Blade – Which are Better?

    When it comes to broadheads for bowhunting, there are basically 2 types you’ll have to choose from – Mechanical or Fixed blade.  When asked most archers are unable to agree upon or answer the question “Which is better?”.  In this article I am going to explain the difference between the two and discuss the pros and cons to both the fixed and mechanical blade broadheads.

    Fixed Blade:
    A broadhead with blades that are constantly exposed.  These broadheads usually come with 2,3 or 4 blades and are the simplest form of broadhead that has been around since the beginning of archery.

    Mechanical Blade:
    A broadhead with blades that are hidden (folded into the broadhead housing) either held in with elastics, o-rings or pressure fittings.  These broadhead blades have tips that cause the blades to expand upon impact pushing the blades into a fully exposed cutting position.

    Now that we have an understanding about the differences between mechanical and fixed blade broadheads, I would like to take the time  to go over some of the main pros and cons of each to give you a better idea of what each is capable of and to help you in deciding which to chose.

    Fixed Blade:
    - More effective for steep angled shots.
    - Less chance of mechanical failure (blades not opening/parts breaking).
    - Increase in penetration at lower poundage.
    - Efficient cutting ability(begins to cut on contact).

    - Decreased accuracy under certain conditions (windy.thick brush)
    - Greater risk of personal injury.
    - Flies differently than field points which means increased setup and tuning time.

    Mechanical Blade:
    - Flies similar to field points which means less tuning.
    - Less chance of accidental injury.
    - Increase in accuracy as there are no blades to deflect off things or get grabbed by the wind.
    - Better in thick bush(less chance of blades hitting brush while in flight).

    - Greater risk of deflection at steeper angled shots.
    - Risk of mechanical failure to expand blades.
    - Less efficient cutting ability(starts cutting only after blades have opened, this is getting better with newer mechanicals ie. Grim Reaper broadheads).

    As you can see there are pros and cons to each and that is why most hunters are often unable to agree as to which broadheads are better. If you are hunting in thick bush or its a windy day you may want more slender, less obtrusive mechanical broadhead, whereas if you’re going to be making steep shots or shooting less weight you may want to go with a fixed blade.

    When it comes down to the final decision its all about personal preference.  Personally I shoot a fixed blade because I like the increased penetration at any angle and the simplicity of the broadhead design that I feel cuts down on potential mechanical failures that can result in a lost and injured animal.  As long as your bow has been paper tuned and sighted in for broadheads the accuracy is very often not affected.

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    Grim Reaper Broadheads Overview

    Grim Reaper broadheads have gathered a lot of attention since the release of their first mechanical broadhead in 2000. The reason for the positive attention is due to the fact that their broadheads feature their self invented “RazorTip” Technology which means that not only do Grim Reaper broadheads contain 3 normal blades, they also contain small blades within the tip of the broadhead. These small blades are meant to give these broadheads more penetration, bigger entrance wounds, and bigger blood trails.

    On top of the small razor blades within the tip of the Grim Reaper broadheads, these mechanical broadheads also contain no o-rings, or elastics to hold the blades shut.  Each of the blades is independent of each other and have a locking system once open to make sure that the blades do not move once expanded.

    Grim Reaper mechanical broadhead features:

    - No rubber bands or o-rings.
    - Small razor blades in tip.
    - Blades rest on shock absorbing spring.
    - Quick change blades.
    - Blades open with 1 pound of pressure.
    - Come in 75, 85, 100, and 125gr weights.
    - 440 stainless steel blades.

    Grim Reaper mechanical broadheads through this technology has given them the ability to:

    - Make angled shots without deflection.
    - Expand or Open Blades without kick on the arrow
    - Create bigger more devastating entrance wounds
    - Create bigger blood trails
    - Drop your trophy animal quicker

    Grim Reaper has re-written the design and functionality of mechanical broadheads to enhance penetration, blood trails, durability, and accuracy.   If you are a mechanical broadhead user, and would like a broadhead that has been designed for performance, give Grim Reaper broadheads a try.

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    5 Mistakes Every Bowhunter Should Avoid

    Every bowhunter at one time or another has made a mistake that has cost them an animal or has cost them a good clean shot leading to hours of trailing. Those of us who have been bow hunting for a number of years have discovered most of these mistakes and have worked hard to learn from and correct them.

    In this article I’m going to take you through some of the biggest mistakes that archers make so that you can catch them before they ruin your hunt.

    Missing the Kill-zone

    In order to bring down an animal as fast and as painless as possible you need to shoot the animal in the kill-zone. The kill-zone is right where the lungs and heart are housed together. This kill-zone placement varies a little on different animals and also depending on the animals’ position (standing, laying down).

    Poor placement of an arrow on an animal will turn your hunt into a nightlong event as the animal will take longer to die. Before you venture out hunting it is a good Idea to familiarize yourself with the vitals, of the animal you will be hunting. This will help you to better judge where you should be shooting. Practice is also a huge importance. You can do this by going online and looking for pictures or what I would recommend is getting a 3D target, the best out there in my opinion are the Rinehart targets: Rinehart Targets Broadhead Buck 3-D Archery Target
    Rinehart Targets Bowhunter Buck 3-D Archery Target

    Misjudging Distance

    This is by far one of the most commonly made mistakes that causes hunters to wound or lose their animals. This is mostly due to 2 reasons. The first reason is that the archer has not had enough if any practice judging yardages and therefore is very inaccurate when it comes to guessing the range of the animal.

    The second reason is that some of the hunting scenarios in the bush make it hard to judge distance because of the tunnel effect or hills or some other obstacles you may run into. The good thing is that this problem can be fixed by placing markers around your tree stand or hunting spots so that you can more easily identify the different yardages.

    Another great option is to get a hold of a rangefinder( Ranger Eye 800 – Laser Range Finder) these will definitely help to make sure you don’t misjudge your distances again.

    Equipment in Poor Condition

    In my opinion nothing is as frustrating as going hunting getting all setup to shoot at an animal and then having something break on your bow because you have neglected to ensure that all of the components of your bow were in good condition. This is a very common mistake as well.

    People often forget that a bow is a piece of equipment that needs to be taken care of and serviced just like a vehicle or a machine. Your bow should be tuned, sighted in, and checked for anything that could be worn out or broken on a regular basis, especially before going on a hunt or to a competition shoot.

    If you practice with your broadheads at all they will become dull so before you begin your hunt take your broadhead sharpener and touch up the blades a bit. I would personally recommend the one I use it is a bit expensive but it works great G5 Montec Diamond Stone Broadhead Sharpener

    Arrows have to be spined correctly to the poundage of the bow. If the spine is too stiff or too loose the arrow will never fly accurately.

    Following Up Too Soon

    I have definitely made this mistake myself, and it is very easy to do. There’s nothing like finally getting that shot on a beautiful animal, and seeing the arrow hit the sweet spot and the animal run a short distance and then lay down. Adrenaline and excitement overwhelm you and automatically your climbing out of your trees tand and rushing towards your trophy.

    As you near the animal you see it twitch and then you see it spring to its feet and start off again, and all you can do is stare in disbelief. This is the problem with following up too soon. Although animals that have been shot in the kill-zone die fairly quickly remember that the animal is running on adrenaline which causes them to be able to keep going if they feel threatened again.

    The general rule that I follow is to wait about 20 min if the animal was hit in the kill-zone, and about 35-40 minutes if you feel that shot was good but not the greatest. Following this rule you will increase you chances of recovering your trophy animal and not have to chase it for hours.

    Drawing Too Much Weight

    Way too many bowhunters are obsessed with speed and therefore crank down their bows to the max draw weight possible so that they’re shooting the max speeds possible. Now don’t get me wrong, speed and kinetic energy is important but its not the only important thing to worry about. Accuracy is just as critical as speed and energy. By having your draw weight set beyond your ability to comfortably draw your bow, you will just handicap yourself and inhibit our ability to correctly and effectively shoot your bow.

    Believe me when I say, the few feet per second you stand to gain is not worth the probability of missing your trophy animal. Remember too, that drawing your bow is relatively easy when not in hunting gear and standing on the ground. It becomes more difficult from a tree stand not too mention that the degree of difficulty is compounded with cold temperatures and layers of clothing making it all of a sudden nearly impossible to draw your bow.

    Too often I’ve seen archers at a archery range that can barely draw their bow. I sometimes can’t help but wonder what happens when they are out hunting.

    Mistakes will be made and there is no use in stressing out about them. The key is to figure out what you did wrong and try to learn from your mistakes each time you make one. By understanding and learning from your past mistakes you greatly increase your chances of becoming a better bowhunter.

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